1974 914 2.0 Porsche

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1974 914 2.0 Porsche
SOLD!!!

I got a local offer today for $3200 and decided to sell the car. This way I don't have to mess with shipping, any remote offers, etc. and I'll get cash to use for Kyle's car when he's ready.

Sale Details: The car is up for sale as of 5/12/08, and here are a few notes.

Update 5/14/08: I changed the tire and rolled it down the driveway. Popping the clutch didn't do much, it grumbled, but I cranked it and it started up. It pulled strong, drove a mile down the road and back. Video coming soon.


Video: 914 running, May 14, 2008.


As far as I know, the car has 70k miles on it, 35k from a rebuilt engine. The guy that sold it to me said he got it from the second owner, who had rebuilt it around 30k miles. It was done in Denver, at either Sterling Service or European Autowerks. Sterling has done all the work (other than welding) for me.

All repairs are documented on this page. It's a good car, but I have a 911 and don't drive it.


I ran across this car for sale at work. Someone had put up a flyer and it intrigued me. After all, it's a Targa top. Though I really wanted a 911, this was a lot of what I wanted, a Porsche, speedy, sporty, and a targa.

I thought about it for a couple days and decided to call they guy and look at it. Couldn't hurt. So I did and he let me drive it home. The night I took it, it was snowing in Denver. I got home and let Tia take Kyle out for a spin. They went, though Kyle didn't really like it. Too noisy and bumpy. It's got a fairly stiff suspension. Then Delaney wanted to go, as did I, but Kendall didn't want me to leave, so I took them both, put them in the seat together and spun around the neighborhood a little. It was fun and the tires gripped great. After the little ones got used to the rocking back and forth as I shifted, they seemed to enjoy it.

The next morning I brushed a couple inches of snow off the car and it started right up. It has this multiple spark ignition upgrade that I'd read about and it works great. In the first few weeks of owning this car, it has always started right up. It does take a few minutes to warm up, so I have to hold the gas a little (haven't done that in years) or rock my right foot on the gas and brake as I drive.

I haven't had a manual shift in quite awhile, but it came right back and I've learned to enjoy it. I like the raw feel of the car, though it is a bit drafty. When I bought it the seals around the doors are a little worn and need to be replaced. Also, the week after I bought it, the speedometer started to whine and then spin up to the 150mph limit. While it's a fairly fast car, especially in the turns, it's not that fast. After a couple of days of alternately working, it spun up one a trip to Denver (about 20 miles) and then broke. No speed reeding, though interestingly enough, it does still record the odometer. So I'll be repairing that soon.

The heat doesn't work great, but I've run without the top on all but the coldest days. Even a few nights, wearing a hat. It's a bumpy ride, loud with the engine right behind you, but wonderful with the top off. I really missed my sunroof from the 2nd Trooper, so the few warm days I've really loved it. The engine was rebuilt by the guy I bought it from and I knew who did the work. It's a Porsche/BMW/Mercedes mechanic that''s worked on the BMW for us and he thinks its a good car.

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SOLD!!!

I got a local offer today for $3200 and decided to sell the car. This way I don't have to mess with shipping, any remote offers, etc. and I'll get cash to use for Kyle's car when he's ready.

Sale Details: The car is up for sale as of 5/12/08, and here are a few notes.

Update 5/14/08: I changed the tire and rolled it down the driveway. Popping the clutch didn't do much, it grumbled, but I cranked it and it started up. It pulled strong, drove a mile down the road and back. Video coming soon.


Video: 914 running, May 14, 2008.


As far as I know, the car has 70k miles on it, 35k from a rebuilt engine. The guy that sold it to me said he got it from the second owner, who had rebuilt it around 30k miles. It was done in Denver, at either Sterling Service or European Autowerks. Sterling has done all the work (other than welding) for me.

All repairs are documented on this page. It's a good car, but I have a 911 and don't drive it.


I ran across this car for sale at work. Someone had put up a flyer and it intrigued me. After all, it's a Targa top. Though I really wanted a 911, this was a lot of what I wanted, a Porsche, speedy, sporty, and a targa.

I thought about it for a couple days and decided to call they guy and look at it. Couldn't hurt. So I did and he let me drive it home. The night I took it, it was snowing in Denver. I got home and let Tia take Kyle out for a spin. They went, though Kyle didn't really like it. Too noisy and bumpy. It's got a fairly stiff suspension. Then Delaney wanted to go, as did I, but Kendall didn't want me to leave, so I took them both, put them in the seat together and spun around the neighborhood a little. It was fun and the tires gripped great. After the little ones got used to the rocking back and forth as I shifted, they seemed to enjoy it.

The next morning I brushed a couple inches of snow off the car and it started right up. It has this multiple spark ignition upgrade that I'd read about and it works great. In the first few weeks of owning this car, it has always started right up. It does take a few minutes to warm up, so I have to hold the gas a little (haven't done that in years) or rock my right foot on the gas and brake as I drive.

I haven't had a manual shift in quite awhile, but it came right back and I've learned to enjoy it. I like the raw feel of the car, though it is a bit drafty. When I bought it the seals around the doors are a little worn and need to be replaced. Also, the week after I bought it, the speedometer started to whine and then spin up to the 150mph limit. While it's a fairly fast car, especially in the turns, it's not that fast. After a couple of days of alternately working, it spun up one a trip to Denver (about 20 miles) and then broke. No speed reeding, though interestingly enough, it does still record the odometer. So I'll be repairing that soon.

The heat doesn't work great, but I've run without the top on all but the coldest days. Even a few nights, wearing a hat. It's a bumpy ride, loud with the engine right behind you, but wonderful with the top off. I really missed my sunroof from the 2nd Trooper, so the few warm days I've really loved it. The engine was rebuilt by the guy I bought it from and I knew who did the work. It's a Porsche/BMW/Mercedes mechanic that''s worked on the BMW for us and he thinks its a good car.

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The 1974 914 2.0 Porsche Saga

Here's a look at the things I've had done and need to do to the car.

Parking Brake
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Cost: $0
 Repair Date: 3/8/2003
When I went for emissions, the knuckleheads popped the knob out of the brake and it wasn't engaging. I made an appointment to have it looked at, but decided to take a few hours one weekend and get it working.
I then got out my trusty Haynes book and paged through it. I figured out how to remove the seat and then saw where the spring was and how to get the button screwed back into the handle. And whala, it worked!
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Purchase
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Cost: $6000
 Repair Date: 2/20/2003
A few stats:
  • 55000 original miles on the body (AFAIK)
  • rebuilt engine around 38k
  • Original interior in good shape, a few tears. Seats covered with neoprene covers
  • Dash cracked
  • Upgraded stereo, speakers, and amp.
  • MSD Ignition
  • Rebuilt headlight motors
  • Rebuilt Wiper motor
  • Electric motor for wiper fluid (originally driven by spare tier)
  • Very little rust. Few spots at corners where it was repainted
  • No center console - Owner says he has one, we'll see if I get it.
  • Original owners manual (haven't had one of these with many cars
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Stereo
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Cost: $70
 Repair Date: 2/24/2003
Got the stereo out of the Trooper for free, but it cost a bit to get it into this car.
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Rear Trunk Latch
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Cost: $196
 Repair Date: 3/12/2003
Broke this somehow, suspect I piled too much in the trunk. Need a new bracket, got an estimate for $186 if I get the part. Stay tuned.

Update: Got it welded and fixed at a local shop. Not cheap, considering the part was $10. And the trunk doesn't close perfectly, but good enough for me.
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Engine Lid
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Cost: $0
 Repair Date: 3/8/2003
The engine lid wasn't staying open, so I broke out the Haynes manual and saw how to make it fit. A screwdriver and some elbow grease got it in. However I bent the hinge. Arrgggggghhhhhhh.

Update 5/6/03: Actually I didn't bend the spring. Talked to the guy I bought it from, and it was already bent. I need to take the lid off and see how bad it is and if I need a new part. The bracket is $25, but I'm not sure that's what I need.

Also the latch fell off (rust) and needs to be welded back on. I need to prep it and see about having someone do that work.
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Oil Change
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Cost: $75
 Repair Date: 5/6/2003
I know, it's a shock to me, but I read an article about using synthetic oil and how you don't change it for 7500 miles or so. Much less often than regular oil (3000 miles). So you have to divide the cost by 2, which works out to $37, not outrageous.
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Emissions
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Cost: $55
 Repair Date: 5/8/2003
I need to figure this one out myself. Since it's a yearly thing, I need to determine how to actually retune the car and get it lean enough to pass. I don't think it will be too difficult, but I didn't have time to attempt it. Keep checking back for additional information on my trials with this.
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Valve Adjustments
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Cost: $220
 Repair Date: 5/8/2003
This is something you want to do at least yearly. Or I hope yearly. My wife may kill me if this is twice a year. Anyway, this was recommended and since I really don't know when this was last done, I had it done along with a number of other things. I was expecting this to be fairly expensive.
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Tires
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Cost: $60
 Repair Date: 5/8/2003
Switch from winter snow tires to summer tires. Guess I better get used to this since I have no clue or equipment for balancing a tire.
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New Battery
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Cost: $40
 Repair Date: 7/31/2003
Picked up my little girl from school one afternoon, drove to the gas station to get her a treat and the car wouldn't start. It cranked, kind of turned over, but then would stop.

I sat there, had someone suggest vapor lock, loosened the gas cap, finally called AAA. The guy looked at it and listened and thought that it was the battery. We checked and it was a 5 year old one, so he jumped me and it started.

It took a couple days, but I went to AutoZone, grabbed a new one and hooked it up. Easy enough, though the negative clamp was a little small. Had to open it all the way and give it a few hammer taps to get it on.

Car started right up.
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Just Died - Fuel Pump
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Cost: $678
 Repair Date: 8/4/2003
That's what I said to my mechanic. Driving yesterday it started to jerk, like it was out of gas. It was slowing and when I disengaged the clutch, the engine died. It cranked, but no turn over. Got a tow, suspect a fuel pump. See what the mechanic says today.

Well, I was right. The fuel pump died. Locally it was nearly a $500 part and along with the fuel filter and labor, an expensive repair. And I'm kicking myself. I suspected this Monday and checked. I could have gotten one mail order for $300-350 and then done it myself, albeit, it would have taken me more than a day to get it done.

Oh well, live and learn.
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Flat Tire
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Cost: $0
 Repair Date: 10/11/2003
Got ready to drive last week and pulled out of the garage and realized I had a flat. I knew it was low, but didn't check it since I was in a hurry.

Went to Big O tires and dropped it off and they fixed it, apparently the inner wall wasn't damaged. And there was no charge. Need to give them some business going forward.
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Driver's Door Handle
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Cost: $25
 Repair Date: 10/20/2003
This broke in the rain one day as I tried to open the door. The handle/lock combo actually broke away from the 2nd bolt, the one that is just inside the door/frame seal. Not sure if that was the same time (don't think so since the handle has always wiggled a bit much), but the handle snapped.

So I checked around and finally found a few on ebay and won one. I started taking the door apart a few weeks ago, but got slowed inside the door where an allen wrench (5mm) is needed to get the handle/lock assembly out. Finally I got it out, but the bolt holding the handle to the lock assembly was one that has the ends spread. So I had to use a screwdriver and hammer to chip off one side and get it out.

From there, the new handle has a nice bolt with a clip to hold it in place, so I slid it in, putting the spring in and using a screwdriver to press it into place and needle nose pliers to move it as I slid the bolt in. Assembly was a breeze, just slip it in (don't forget the gasket) and tighten the inner allen bolt.
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Flat Tire
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Cost: $165
 Repair Date: 12/29/2003
I hit a huge pothole coming home and blew a hole in the rear passenger tire. Luckily there was a Discount Tire nearby and I pulled in there.

They couldn't repair it, so we looked at new tires. They were all in the $80 range, and I got a deal, so I replaced both rear tires (the driver one had a bulge in it) and had them mounted for the price.
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Driver's top seal
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Cost: $2.95
 Repair Date: 5/3/2004
It was a birthday present, so no cost, but I needed silicone spray for the seal. I had pulled out the old one (piece of cake) and then tried to slide the new one on and it wouldn't go. Got hung up about 3 inches on.

So I tried putting it in one channel, then forcing the 2nd one in. That didn't work either.

So it came down to some silicone spray on the channel and then forcing it on. It slid about 1/2 way immediately, but then I had to use lots of elbow grease to get it on. Both pulling and pushing.

When I was finished, it was slightly long, probably because I stretched it, so I put the top on and tried to push it back into place. Over 10 minutes or so I think it returned to original length and fit.
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Oil Change, Tires
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Cost: $375
 Repair Date: 1/5/2005
Got my winter tires on and rotated. Balance too, I guess. Oil change with synthetic and the valves adjusted. Need brakes and rotors, but declined the $650 for now.
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Starter
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Cost: $300
 Repair Date: 3/15/2006
New starter, $200 + labor at Parker Imports.
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Engine Latch
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Cost: $200
 Repair Date: 3/15/2006
It's been 3 years and I knew the L bracket was broken when I bought it. Shortly thereafter the latch on the lid broke and I've run with no lid for a couple years.

Since I was in there and this is tight welding around the lid I let them do it. Straight time to clean and reweld two brackets.
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Misc 2006
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Cost: $450
 Repair Date: 5/31/2006
Had the tires rotated, the engine tuned, and points replaced for both sets of cylinders. Rough running when it went it, lots more power and low idling now.
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Trunk Lid
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Cost: $212
 Repair Date: 10/20/2006
The bracket I had welded a couple years ago failed. I took it to the guys at Parker Imports because they'd done a great job with my engine lid and they found it had been welded with brass, which isn't so strong. So it was more than I wanted to pay, but it needed to be done and now works great.
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Sale Information
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Cost: $0
 Repair Date: 11/5/2006
OK, I've gotten a few emails on the car with a variety of questions, surprisingly on different things. So I've responded to some and got more pictures taken and linked here.

I scanned in the service records and if my wife will email them to me, I'll link in here. Sterling Service in Littleton, CO has done most of the service for me and the previous owner, so like 6-7 years. You can call John, the owner, for info. Have him call me is he asks. Steve Jones with the silver 914 should clue him in as to which car.

A few people have asked about the shape of the car. If this was a 5 year old car I'd say fair condition. Since it's 33 years old, I think a good is in order. It's nowhere near show condition, but it runs well and is ready to be a daily driver.

A few people have asked about long trips. Typically I haven't taken many, but I have been to Co Springs and Boulder quite a few times in the last year (70-80 miles one way) with no issues. This summer I also drove in the mountains for a camping trip. I went 3 hours out and back, with no issues. Car started right up after a couple cold nights in near Granby Lake. Also got 26 mph average on the in and out trips. I planned on taking it to KC this summer, but got busy. I have no hesitations driving to CA if need be. Since most of you seem to be on the other side of the country, if you want to pay me the original full $5k, I'll deliver it back East. Assuming the weather holds. I'm happy to hold it to spring as well with a $1k deposit and we can get it delivered then. I can garage it and disconnect the battery if you'd like.

Pictures and info


Driver front bumper in pretty good shape. tiny amounts of chrome rust around the bolts.


passenger front bumper, ditto.


small tear in the front bumper, just left of the license plate.


Driver's seat. The seats are ok, been covered with neoprene covers the whole time I've owned it. The trim piece on the side is torn. I covered with black tape, but needs to be recovered.


dash, passenger side. It's cracked in a few places, but it could be covered instead of being replaced. The stereo is one I put in 3 years ago, plays MP3 CDs and is hooked up to an amp and 4 speakers (2 each side). Sounds ok, not great. The heater/defroster controls work. Fan works. Heater works, well enough for Denver. I can run most days in the winter with the top off and windows up if I wear a hat. Cigarette lighter works and you can see the phone charger cord on the left.


passenger seat/trim. This is what is ripped on the driver side.


front passenger side wheel well. It's in good shape here, but you can see the rims need a good cleaning.


One of the few rust areas on the car. This is the passenger side rear wheel well and I've included my fingers for size comparison. Just two small bubble spots, no softness there. They probably could be sanded down and spot painted.


The other rust area on the car. This is the driver's side, rear wheel well and it got scratched and some paint removed last year. It's just started to rust and it needs spot painting. It looks worse than it really is and you'd have to be looking to notice it.


Undercarriage from below driver's door. Someone asked for pictures, so here they are. Not sure you can tell much, but it's just dirty under there. Kicking from the top feels solid and doesn't knock any rust dust down.


Engine compartment looking form driver's side. the battery holder was asked about, so here's a shot. Just had some welding done and they pulled out the battery. No mention of rust issues. Everything seems ok, no complaints from my mechanic who only does German (Porsche, Mercedes, Audi) cars.


rest of engine. K&N filter. It's a little dusty as I live on a 1/2 mile gravel road.


Here's the trunk bracket, just above the battery box. I had this welded in the middle of October, which is what I was waiting for before I listed the car. I had this welded early on and the knucklehead used brass to weld it. It pulled loose in late summer, and so I had Parker Imports weld it back after grinding down the brass. Seems solid now.


trunk. I removed most of my junk after I took this one. Brackets are there for targa top storage. You can see the MSD ignition on the upper right.


Targa top leaning on the back of the car. This is the driver's side. I have a spare latch (shown on the left).


Other side of targa top. The latch is ok, but this bracket piece cracked. I have searched around, but can't find this piece anyway. I never checked if it could be welded and I hesitate to epoxy it to the top. It latches in the car, but it's a little finicky. If you know what this piece is called, let me know. The guy I got it from had replaced the seal around the back (right side of picture) with this stupid foam. I have a replacement seal, along with a number of other seals, but haven't replaced many. The seals are a pain if you've done them, especially for a non-mechanic like me.


similar shot, but I wanted to show the new seal at the bottom. Both the side seals have been replaced (after a few hours of swearing) and the seals on the upper rear door (near your ear) on both sides. Ihave most of the other seals. I think my Mom got me every seal Pelican Parts sells in 2005 for Christmas. They're in a box and included.


spare parts. I had to break out the boxes I have and here you can see that I got two consoles. I haven't installed either and one is shorter than the other. No idea why. The original intake box is to the left and you can see I have some of the tail light holder in the box to the right.


more parts. The bra is here along with the race mirror. The console gauges and holder are to the right. The replacement speedo I bought on eBay is on the bra. I haven't ever changed this because the odometer still works.


here's the original exhaust, at least that's what was told to me. Also the center console pad is to the top left. I bought another on on eBay that has a compartment in it to store change, papers, etc. It's in the car. This one is a straight pad.
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Service Records
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Cost: $0
 Repair Date: 11/5/2006
You can view the ones I have here. Surprisingly in almost 4 years there's not that many.

Service Records - Beware, it's big, 20MB. If you want a list of repairs, I'll get them listed tomoerrow.
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Sold
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Cost: $3200
 Repair Date: 5/17/2008
Got a local offer and sold the car today. Or I have an agreement to sell.
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Total Costs : $12,323.95


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